The pattern for the foundation was draped on the form, with the bust cups being developed from a bra draft. It was mocked up in canvas - adjustments were made to nip it in at the waist and I put a waist seam in the side back panels to allow for more curve over the hips. The foundation is made of two layers of quilted net and quilted cotton back satin and stiff stuff for the bust cups (dyed to match skin tone). The dress was then draped over the foundation. The bodice was pleated onto the foundation and stitched at the waist, and the skirt was attached on top of that. The front waterfall pleats are flatlined with stiff net, and there is 2" wide horsehair braid at the hem.